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| Petrus Kurppa and a Dutch speculaas mold. Source: Petruksen Piparkakut |
Healing Spicy Breads
Like so many good things, also gingerbread has its roots in civilizations that existed thousands of years ago. Already pharaohs of Egypt enjoyed spicy breads that reminded what we now call gingerbread. Petrus emphasizes, that these were not the cookies that we know today, but instead were more like actual breads.
The Finnish word for gingerbread, piparkakku, could be literally translated as pepper cake. This word comes from the Middle Ages, when the word for pepper was used to refer to all exotic spices. These spices came to Europe from Asia through the long trade routes to India and China. Pieni piparkakkukirja, a gingerbread book by Inga and Kristiina Aaltonen, reminds that honey, sugar, and spices used in the cookies were considered to be good for health. Medieval monks started to make spicy honey breads for medicinal uses and spread the idea all over Europe.
Long tradition also means that there's a lot of variety. Petrus tells me, that practically every country in Europe has this same basic gingerbread that tastes more or less the same, but when attention is paid to the local specialties, the differences arise. "Pipari" that is eaten in Finland is known mostly in Nordic and Baltic countries. For example Austrian Mariezeller lebzerler tastes completely different than a Scandinavian gingerbread cookie.
Beauty and messages with molds
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| Wooden mold by Oldrich Kvapil, from the year 2012. Source: Petruksen Piparkakut |
Molds are about as old invention as gingerbread itself. Petrus says that molds have been found in ancient Egypt, Rome etc. These are sometimes called the ancestors of modern cookie molds.In museums they are usually called bread molds which is a good description. In medieval Europe cookie molds were especially known in German-speaking areas: Austria, Germany, Swizerland. Thetradition was spread to other countries by German immigrants.
The tradition never made it to Finland. In Finland and Scandinavia gingerbread is done with butter which doesn't fit well together with using molds. Molds require a certain type of dough, although a very good baker is able to make a molded cookie even with a softer dough. There's a lot of different recipes, some harder to use than others. Baking and decorating a big gingerbread using difficult dough was one of the tests a baker's apprentice had to complete to show his skills.
Although cookie molds peaked in popularity centuries ago during Baroque, the tradition lives on. Molds can be made with new materials now, and they have a variety of different uses. But why a modern man got interested in this ancient craft? To Petrus gingerbread means interesting museums, new friendships across borders, and joy of baking. He sees gingerbread cookies in a wider context: to understand the taste of today and older times, you need to understand society, people, and surrounding world for each era.
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| Source: Petruksen Piparkaut |




